On the move again!
After another filling breakfast, we checked out by 11 am and left our luggage with the hotel to go for a walk along the river before our 1:20 train.
It was another sunny, lovely (i.e. not too hot) day.
It really was beautiful.
But Bo had not slept well the night before, and River has reached his limit of walking “aimlessly”, so after this dreamy weeping willow, the kids found a bench and listened to music.
Sean and I wanted to keep walking, so I took him to see that big cool cathedral, but the other side I hadn’t seen yet.
Then we collected the kids, got one last patisserie-style chocolate chip cookie, and hiked our luggage back to the train station for the 20-minute ride to Sélestat.
This train has super comfy seats and the largest windows. I watched the view the whole way.
We were able to meet up with our Airbnb host after a longer-than-we-were-expecting walk from the train station and she let us in to the colorful apartment above the shop she and her husband ran for decades before they retired. It is soooo cute, but I’m saving pictures for tomorrow, because I’m about to post 80 photos from our walk with a greeter.
So, Rick Steves often likes arranging a walk with a greeter when he’s in a new town, and I knew I couldn’t get anyone to come with me more than once, but I did want to try it once on this trip, and Sélestat seemed the perfect spot for this since it is less touristy and I really didn’t know much about the city.
Greeters are volunteers who have lived in a town or city for a long time and love talking about it. They are not professional tour guides, and do not accept money. They just enjoy meeting people from all over and sharing the place they love.
So, we had a walk with a lovely woman named Caroline at 2:30pm, meeting at a carousel just a few minutes from our apartment.
Based on the mood, I figured I would be going on this walk alone, but sweet Bo decided to come along too. I’m so glad she did!
We learned so much! I totally geeked out in the history, and sure enough saw things I never would have without a local guide. She opened doors (literal doors) and went places that I would’ve thought were not open to the public. It was cool.
One of the first stops was a local jeweler who has won awards. Inside the shop was like an art gallery, and you could even peek through a door and see jewelers in the workshop. I never would have gone inside—it looked too rich for my blood, but I’m so glad we did!
Then she taught us how to tell which century some of the houses had been built by pulling out props to demonstrate the different methods of fitting together the wooden beams. Bo and I can tell you historical stuff now.
Caroline explained how the city was a prosperous trading town and the river actually was diverted to flow through the streets (within the ramparts).
This is a pillar holding up a house. Do you know how to read that date? Did you want to say 1899, but the 8 is not finished? That’s because that’s how they wrote half of eight, so this pillar was built in 1499! The stonemason likely didn’t even know North America existed.
She showed us how tradesmen would have a symbol of their trade carved above their door.
Then she brought us to a hidden city garden celebrating the flower of the city—Dahlias!
We were excited to see the giant storks nesting on some of the roofs.
The oldest church from the 13 century I think she said. So older than all the houses she showed us. The church came first.
There were more stories to go with these photos, but I’m getting tired!
I will say, there was a super cool modern art installation inside the church which she showed us. it’s crazy because until she flipped a light switch, I’d never have noticed it. One on each side of the alter up front. Looks like peeling plaster.
Then she turned on the lights beneath…
Do you see the shadows they cast? People flying. She said its meaning was about what we’re capable of, what we can become, when we let the light fill us (be it faith or passion). Cool, right?
Then she took us down into the crypt where some bishop is buried, and where they keep the excavated bust of a mystery lady found in Selestat when digging through the remains of ashes that preserved stuff? Caroline’s English and my French meant some things were lost in translation.
Then we walked to a “newer” church (still really old).
These panels of stained glass were taken down during WWII and sent to another, safer part of France to protect them from bombing.
She told us the story of Sampson and Delilah and then showed us the statue of him with his massive abs, flowing locks, and the donkey jawbone he supposedly used to kill 300 philistines.
And she showed us Saint Valentine (sneaking us past a do not enter sign), patron saint of beekeepers. This honey for your honey on Valentine’s Day.
We were almost back to where we started, but she wanted to show us the Humanist Library that they are so very proud of. A museum housing and protecting a priceless collection of early manuscripts, and just 8 years ago completely redesigned by a famous architect.
As we were about to part ways, Caroline noticed a rhombus-shaped window in a building and squeaked. She said it meant there was a cool staircase on the other side. She took us around, open a door that looked like someone’s residence (inside it seemed more like apartments) and had us look at the old sandstone staircase. It was like being inside a seashell!
Bo and I were so hungry after we parted ways that we needed to stop for gelato before going home.
We went back to watch the time trial stage of the Tour (our boy Remco won!), and then went out to eat at a pub with a nice terrace. The boys got (boring, but they say tasty) burgers. I got an AMAZING tarte flambé with goat cheese, cherry tomatoes, and the thinnest drizzle of honey.
Actually, I could probably eat that again right now.
Goodnight!
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